🧴 Shampoo Bar Calculator

Create custom solid shampoo bars with the perfect balance of cleansing surfactants, conditioning agents, and nourishing ingredients for your hair type.

✨ Choose Your Hair Type (Optional)

Select a preset formula optimized for your hair type, or customize from scratch.

πŸ“¦ Batch Settings

πŸ§ͺ Ingredients

🧼 Primary Surfactants (Cleansers)

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
Gold standard. Gentle, creamy lather. Derived from coconut. pH 5-6.
%

πŸ’¨ Secondary Surfactants (Foam Boosters)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Gentle foam booster. Reduces irritation from primary surfactants.
%

πŸ’† Conditioning Agents

BTMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate)
Best for detangling. Cationic conditioner. Easy to use.
%
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
Penetrates hair shaft. Adds moisture and shine.
%

🧈 Butters & Oils

Cocoa Butter
Rich moisturizer. Helps bar hardness. Chocolate scent.
%
Shea Butter
Deeply moisturizing. Great for dry/damaged hair.
%
Argan Oil
Liquid gold for hair. Adds shine without weight.
%

πŸ’ͺ Proteins

Silk Amino Acids
Adds shine and softness. Penetrates hair cuticle.
%
⚠️ Total: 84.0%

Your formula is under 100%. This will work but bar will be lighter.

πŸ”¬ Bar Analysis

Moderate-Strong
Cleansing
Moderate
Conditioning
Hard
Hardness
Very Gentle
Gentleness
Lather Type:Creamy, dense lather
50.0%
Surfactants
8.0%
Conditioning
15.0%
Butters
β€’Good balance of cleansing and gentleness
β€’Good conditioning balance for most hair types
β€’Good hardness, will last well

πŸ“Š Recipe Amounts

Bar size Γ— Quantity:80.0 g Γ— 4
Total needed:320.0 g
With 8% overage:345.6 g
SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)172.8 g
Cocamidopropyl Betaine34.6 g
BTMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate)20.7 g
Cocoa Butter27.6 g
Shea Butter17.3 g
Argan Oil6.9 g
Silk Amino Acids3.5 g
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)6.9 g
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πŸ“ How to Make

  1. 1
    Melt the base: Weigh your SCI/surfactant into a heat-safe container. Add butters. Heat gently in a double boiler or microwave (30 sec bursts) until soft and pliable. SCI doesn't fully melt - it gets soft like clay.
  2. 2
    Add conditioning agents: Mix in BTMS or other cationic conditioners while warm. They'll melt into the mixture.
  3. 3
    Cool slightly, then add liquids: When mixture cools to ~140Β°F (60Β°C), add liquid ingredients (oils, proteins, secondary surfactants). Mix well.
  4. 4
    Add heat-sensitive ingredients: Once below 130Β°F (55Β°C), add fragrance, essential oils, and any heat-sensitive proteins.
  5. 5
    Mold and press: Pack mixture firmly into molds, pressing out air pockets. Silicone molds work best. You can also hand-press into bars.
  6. 6
    Cure: Let bars sit 24-48 hours before unmolding. For best results, let cure 1 week before use to harden fully.
πŸ’‘ Pro Tips:
  • β€’ Wear a mask when working with SCI powder - it's dusty!
  • β€’ Add a splash of water if mixture is too crumbly
  • β€’ Store finished bars in a dry place, wrapped in paper or cloth
  • β€’ Use a soap dish with drainage to extend bar life
  • β€’ Shampoo bars typically last 50-80 washes

πŸ“š Ingredient Guide

🧼 SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

The gold standard for shampoo bars. Gentle, sulfate-free, creates creamy lather. Derived from coconut. pH 5-6, closest to hair's natural pH.

πŸ’¨ SLSA vs SLS

SLSA (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is NOT the same as harsh SLS! It's gentle, biodegradable, and creates fluffy lather. Safe for sensitive scalps.

πŸ’† BTMS-50

Behentrimonium Methosulfate - a cationic conditioner that provides incredible detangling. Essential for dry, curly, or damaged hair types.

🧈 Butters & Oils

Add moisture and help bind the bar. Cocoa butter adds hardness. Argan and jojoba penetrate the hair shaft. Don't exceed 15% total or bar may not cleanse well.

πŸ’ͺ Proteins

Strengthen and repair hair. Silk adds shine, keratin fills damage, wheat adds volume. Keep total under 5% to avoid protein overload (stiff, straw-like hair).

βš—οΈ pH Matters

Hair's natural pH is 4.5-5.5. Adding citric acid (0.5-2%) helps lower pH, sealing the cuticle for shinier hair. Test your bars with pH strips!

❓ Common Questions

Will I need a conditioner bar too?

It depends on your hair! If you have normal to oily hair, a well-formulated shampoo bar with conditioning agents may be enough. For dry, curly, or damaged hair, you'll likely want a separate conditioner bar.

Why is my bar crumbly?

SCI-based bars can be tricky! Try adding a bit more liquid (water or glycerin), pressing more firmly into molds, or increasing your butter percentage slightly.

How long do shampoo bars last?

One bar typically replaces 2-3 bottles of liquid shampoo (50-80 washes). Store in a dry place between uses. Shelf life is 12+ months if kept dry.

Is there a transition period?

Some people experience a "transition period" when switching to shampoo bars. This is your scalp adjusting to sulfate-free cleansing. It typically takes 2-4 weeks. An apple cider vinegar rinse can help!

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