π§΄ Shampoo Bar Calculator
Create custom solid shampoo bars with the perfect balance of cleansing surfactants, conditioning agents, and nourishing ingredients for your hair type.
β¨ Choose Your Hair Type (Optional)
Select a preset formula optimized for your hair type, or customize from scratch.
π¦ Batch Settings
π§ͺ Ingredients
π§Ό Primary Surfactants (Cleansers)
π¨ Secondary Surfactants (Foam Boosters)
π Conditioning Agents
π§ Butters & Oils
πͺ Proteins
Your formula is under 100%. This will work but bar will be lighter.
π¬ Bar Analysis
π Recipe Amounts
π How to Make
- 1Melt the base: Weigh your SCI/surfactant into a heat-safe container. Add butters. Heat gently in a double boiler or microwave (30 sec bursts) until soft and pliable. SCI doesn't fully melt - it gets soft like clay.
- 2Add conditioning agents: Mix in BTMS or other cationic conditioners while warm. They'll melt into the mixture.
- 3Cool slightly, then add liquids: When mixture cools to ~140Β°F (60Β°C), add liquid ingredients (oils, proteins, secondary surfactants). Mix well.
- 4Add heat-sensitive ingredients: Once below 130Β°F (55Β°C), add fragrance, essential oils, and any heat-sensitive proteins.
- 5Mold and press: Pack mixture firmly into molds, pressing out air pockets. Silicone molds work best. You can also hand-press into bars.
- 6Cure: Let bars sit 24-48 hours before unmolding. For best results, let cure 1 week before use to harden fully.
- β’ Wear a mask when working with SCI powder - it's dusty!
- β’ Add a splash of water if mixture is too crumbly
- β’ Store finished bars in a dry place, wrapped in paper or cloth
- β’ Use a soap dish with drainage to extend bar life
- β’ Shampoo bars typically last 50-80 washes
π Ingredient Guide
π§Ό SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)
The gold standard for shampoo bars. Gentle, sulfate-free, creates creamy lather. Derived from coconut. pH 5-6, closest to hair's natural pH.
π¨ SLSA vs SLS
SLSA (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is NOT the same as harsh SLS! It's gentle, biodegradable, and creates fluffy lather. Safe for sensitive scalps.
π BTMS-50
Behentrimonium Methosulfate - a cationic conditioner that provides incredible detangling. Essential for dry, curly, or damaged hair types.
π§ Butters & Oils
Add moisture and help bind the bar. Cocoa butter adds hardness. Argan and jojoba penetrate the hair shaft. Don't exceed 15% total or bar may not cleanse well.
πͺ Proteins
Strengthen and repair hair. Silk adds shine, keratin fills damage, wheat adds volume. Keep total under 5% to avoid protein overload (stiff, straw-like hair).
βοΈ pH Matters
Hair's natural pH is 4.5-5.5. Adding citric acid (0.5-2%) helps lower pH, sealing the cuticle for shinier hair. Test your bars with pH strips!
β Common Questions
Will I need a conditioner bar too?
It depends on your hair! If you have normal to oily hair, a well-formulated shampoo bar with conditioning agents may be enough. For dry, curly, or damaged hair, you'll likely want a separate conditioner bar.
Why is my bar crumbly?
SCI-based bars can be tricky! Try adding a bit more liquid (water or glycerin), pressing more firmly into molds, or increasing your butter percentage slightly.
How long do shampoo bars last?
One bar typically replaces 2-3 bottles of liquid shampoo (50-80 washes). Store in a dry place between uses. Shelf life is 12+ months if kept dry.
Is there a transition period?
Some people experience a "transition period" when switching to shampoo bars. This is your scalp adjusting to sulfate-free cleansing. It typically takes 2-4 weeks. An apple cider vinegar rinse can help!
Shampoo bar calculator by Soaply. Create plastic-free, travel-friendly hair care at home.